What do you think of pears?

Do you have a pear tree in your garden? Are you interested in growing them?

A beautiful Winter Cole pear
A beautiful Winter Cole pear

We’re on a bit of a mission here at the farm to bring pears back into fashion, because when you get them right, they’re really delicious.

They also really lend themselves to preserving, they’re relatively bomb proof in the garden (as long as you keep the birds off), and they improve your food security by extending the fresh fruit season.

However they tend to be one of the more ignored fruits, and there’s a couple of reasons why.

One is because it’s very hard to pick them at the right time so they will ripen properly, though this is easier with some varieties (including the various types of nashis) than others.

Ripe nashi pears
Ripe nashi pears

Many types of pears go floury if you let them ripen on the tree, so they have to be picked when they are mature (but not ripe) and then stored in a coolroom or fridge for a few weeks before allowing them to ripen at room temperature. That means there’s a few variables you need to get right.

First, knowing when they are mature can be tricky; it’s about making sure that the seeds have gone completely dark brown and plump, and that the fruit has enough starch in it.

Secondly, you need to be patient and let the fruit stay in cold storage for long enough before you try to ripen them, or they just won’t ripen. This is something we’ve got wrong many times ourselves in the past – in our eagerness to get them to market, we’ve often either picked too early or not left them in the coolroom long enough.

Pear blister mite
Pear blister mite

Pears are relatively easy to grow. They can get a few problems, like Pear blister mite (above), Black spot (a common fungal disease) and of course the very common Pear and cherry slug, but none of those problems are too destructive or hard to control.

They’re usually very reliable trees, they thrive in conditions that other trees don’t like (e.g., soggy, or frosty areas) and it’s pretty easy to get them to crop well. 

Gorgeous white pear flowers
Gorgeous white pear flowers

Plus, they’re beautiful trees to have in the garden, with large glossy green leaves, beautiful white blossom, and a stunning autumn display. 

Clearly we’re big fans of pears, which is why we’ve been steadily expanding the number of varieties we grow on the farm. It also means we’re able to offer some unusual heritage varieties at Carr’s Organic Fruit Tree Nursery (like St Michael Archangel, Glou Morceau, and Beurre Clairgeau, as well as the much sought after but hard to find Lemon Bergamot.)

If you’re tempted to plant a pear tree but don’t feel confident in how to grow them, take our short course Plump pears and quirky quinces for information about pests and diseases that affect these fruits, how to prune them, and a bonus bundle of 5 tried-and-true pear and quince recipes.

Pears featured at the National Gallery of Australia
Pears featured at the National Gallery in Canberra


The opportunity cost of not netting

Beautiful autumn colours in the apricots
Beautiful autumn colours in the apricots

Autumn is one of the most stunning times of year here on the farm. But it hasn’t all been beautiful sunny weather, we’ve finally had some decent rain. We’ve even had a bit of hail the last couple of days.

Hailstorms at this time of year are much less damaging than when we have fruit on the trees, but have reminded us of one of the main benefits of netting your trees.

Most of us think of netting fruit trees as a preventive measure to stop the birds eating the fruit – and it is – but it can also provide a level of protection against hail damage, depending on the type of net you use, and how you apply it.

Putting away the nets after the season
Putting away the nets after the season

As the fruit season winds down and we start to have a bit more breathing space to think about other things, now is a great time to review how your netting (if you have any) performed this season. Think about both the pros and cons:

  • was it easy to manage the infrastructure (either building your netting system, or putting out and taking in nets)?
  • how well did it protect your fruit from different species of birds or other animals like bats, possums, rats, kangaroos or deer?
  • did it provide any protection from weather events like rain, hail or storms?
  • did it have a negative effect on birds or wildlife? 
  • did it cause any damage to the fruit or trees?

It might have been a bit of a pain to manage, or not been completely effective. But here comes the real convincer (and it’s probably something you don’t want to think about!)

If you didn’t net your trees this year, try to estimate how much fruit you’ve actually lost to birds, other animals or weather events that you think might have been preventable with the right protection in place. 

Considering that a mature tree can easily produce from 20 to 40 kg of fruit (or even more in some cases), you may well be looking at substantial losses!

Once you have the answers to those questions, they’ll steer you in the right direction for making some good decisions about how you’ll approach the question of netting your fruit trees next season.

A netting enclosure over cherry trees reinforced with wire
A netting enclosure over cherry trees reinforced with wire

And it’s definitely worth putting protection in place if you can. If you’ve never seen hail damage of peaches, check this out – gruesome, huh?

Hail damage in cling peaches
Hail damage in cling peaches

Our farm is in a fruit growing area, and it’s becoming increasingly common for commercial orchardists to net their orchards to prevent hail damage as well as bird damage.

Two common methods commercial growers rely on are to use either a permanent canopy system (as you can see in the photo above), or drape netting the trees each year and then storing the nets in the shed over winter, as we do on the farm.

Surprisingly, both systems can offer substantial protection against hail. It’s tempting to think that you’ll only get hail protection if you put in a highly engineered (and therefore expensive) permanent structure, but actually those systems can be more easily damaged by hail, as we saw in a really bad hailstorm in Harcourt a few years ago, where the weight of the hailstones caused severe damage to the net of a neighbouring orchard (though to be fair, it did protect the crop underneath).

Drape netting may still result in some fruit on the outside of the tree (where it’s in contact with, or just under the net) being damaged by hail, but actually the net deflects most of the hail and provides pretty good coverage for most of the crop.


In our opinion, the best system for both birds and hail is something like the one above, because it’s not in contact with the tree, but it also allows the hail to fall off rather than catching it. This type of system can also be as temporary or permanent as you like and the same structure can also be used for frost cloth or fruit fly cloth if needed.

So there you go, the pros and cons of different types of netting systems for providing hail protection.

Which netting system you use (and you can see quite a few different versions in our short course Protect Your Crop From Birds) will depend on your garden, your budget and your capacity to build it – but guaranteed, your future self will thank you for installing the most effective system you can manage!

Will a multigraft fruit tree suit you?

Multigraft fruit trees are kind of awesome.

A multigraft apricot tree with two varieties
A multigraft apricot tree with two varieties

This is a great example — an apricot tree with both Katy and Trevatt apricot branches. Katy is an early apricot that is a bright orange colour, firm texture, slightly oblong shape and terrific flavour that combines sweetness and tartness. It’s also a reliable cropper.

Trevatt is a more common apricot that you may have heard of — it’s a heritage variety (dating from the 1900s, developed in Mildura), and is completely different to Katy. It ripens about a month later, it has pale lemony-orange skin, and is a super-sweet apricot with very little tartness. It also has a much different texture, ripens from the inside, and is much softer — it can even go a little mushy if allowed to get overripe.

So, will a multigraft suit you? They’re much less well-known, and many gardeners are a little hesitant to try them out.

It’s almost a no-brainer that a multigraft is a better use of the space in your garden, unless you have space for a LOT of fruit trees and would prefer to have whole trees of each variety. Considering that a mature tree can easily yield up to 40 or 50 kg of fruit (or more) in a good season, it usually makes sense to spread the harvest over a longer period, rather than have a massive glut to deal with all at once.

There’s a couple of other great reasons that multi-grafts can work well:

  • pollination: in this example both varieties are self-fertile, but even self-fertile trees can benefit from having pollen from another variety close by, and this can help to increase yields;
  • spreads the risk: apart from the issue of gluts already discussed, some seasons just don’t favour some varieties. For example, if you happen to get a frost just at the time when the Katy are at full bloom, the Trevatt may be later coming into bloom and might therefore have less frost damage. Another scenario we’ve seen many times is rain affecting one variety that is almost ripe, causing it to split, while another variety that is still a month away from picking can escape relatively unscathed — so the more varieties you have, the better your chance of at least getting some fruit every year!
  • disease resistance: different varieties may be more vulnerable to particular diseases, like blossom blight or brown rot, either because of the difference in their ripening times, or just the natural resistance of that variety.
A fruit salad tree with a plum and two apricots
A fruit salad tree with a plum and two apricots

A fruit salad tree is like a multi-graft on steroids!

This extends the concept to include different types of fruit on the same tree, rather than just different varieties of the same type of fruit. In the example we’ve included here, you get both!

This tree has three varieties:

  1. Katy apricot (described above) – ripens late Nov
  2. Trevatt apricot (described above) – ripens late Dec
  3. Angelina plum – an early season European plum, very sweet, with beautiful dark purple skin with the traditional dusty-looking ‘bloom’ on the skin. These plums are incredibly delicious and versatile – you can eat them fresh, dry them, bottle them, jam them or make them into wine, just to name a few. They’re also a favourite for the classic European plum dumplings, or plum cake. They’re a really good plum to include in the garden.
Beautiful Angelina plums
Beautiful Angelina plums

Angelinas ripen in January – so with just one tree you’ve already extended your harvest over three months, as well as given yourself a pretty good variety of fruit to enjoy and preserve.

We love creating multi-grafts in our on-farm nursery (called Carr’s Organic Fruit Tree Nursery), and have quite a lot of different combos on sale this year — you can see our selection of multi-grafts here.

At the moment we’ve limited it to apricots and plums (though we have plans to extend it to apples, pears and peaches), but there’s heaps more you can do in your own garden, by learning how to graft new varieties onto existing trees.

It’s such a brilliant and easy way to extend your fruit season and increase the variety of fruit in your diet that Grow Your Own Fruit Trees for Free
is one of our favourite short courses, and probably the best one to start with if you’re new to grafting. We also have specialist courses on individual grafting techniques when you’re ready for them.

There can be a couple of drawbacks with multi-grafts though.

One of them is that the trees can come out of the nursery a slightly unusual shape (as you can see from the photo above), and so require a bit of careful management to establish as a useful ‘vase’ shaped tree.

The other main issue is that one variety may dominate the tree, and again, may need some attention when pruning to help keep the tree balanced. A handy tip is to plant the tree with the weakest branch pointing north, where it will be favoured by more sunlight.

But really, the management issues are usually handled easily during the regular “getting to know you” phase of your relationship with the tree, and once established, they usually settle down and crop beautifully.