Surely not … and yet … we think these peach buds on our Anzac peach tree might be starting to swell soon.
Anzacs are a great ‘indicator’ variety for us, because they’re one of the early varieties to show signs of movement in spring.
Almonds are another great indicator as they’re also very early. Rather than having to monitor the whole orchard, we just go and look at the Anzacs and almonds to see what’s happening.
If you have peach and nectarine trees in your garden or farm, it’s time to start monitoring them for budswell.
Because it’s the trigger for putting on a spray to prevent Leaf Curl, which is a fungal disease that can have devastating consequences, particularly for young trees.
A bad case of leaf curl can even affect the fruit.
The good news is, it’s (mostly) preventable. You can find details about how and when to spray in Keep Your Fruit Trees Free From Disease. This is one of our most comprehensive short online courses, and includes guidance on how to manage and prevent about a dozen of the most common diseases of fruit trees.
This time of year we’re twiddling our thumbs waiting for the leaves to drop off the nursery trees so that we can dig them up for people’s bare rooted orders and move them around to make way for new areas of nursery.
We are also collecting and cleaning seed for apple, quince, pear and peach rootstock.
It’s nearly time to collect our plum cuttings which will become next years budding rootstock and we are also beginning to diligently collect and label our scion wood. This is the pieces of first year growth off the varieties of trees that we want to propagate. We store the scions in the fridge until spring when we use it to graft onto our rootstock in the nursery.
You might have bought trees from us before … and therefore be wondering why we’ve been saying it’s our first year of operation?
Previously, Katie and Hugh sold trees through Mt Alexander Fruit Gardens. Most of the trees came from a wholesale nursery, supplemented by a few trees from their own nursery (which were left over from what they’d grown to plant in their own orchard).
Then, they finished re-planting the orchard, leased it to Ant (Tellurian Fruit Gardens), and started the Harcourt Organic Farming Co-op (HOFC).
But, we didn’t want to stop growing fruit trees on the farm.
Because we (Sas and Katie) want to learn as much as we can from our resident master-nurseryman Merv Carr (Katie’s dad), we want to preserve heritage varieties by propagating them, and we want to help as many people as we can grow their own food.
So, Katie and Sas joined forces to start Carr’s Organic Fruit Tree Nursery (named after Merv), and joined HOFC.
Joining the co-op has meant that we’ve also been able to get organic certification for the nursery – in what we think is a Victorian first!
We’ve still got a fairly limited range of organic trees (and quite a few have already sold out, like our multigraft trees), but as our skills expand we’re aiming for the range of trees we sell to expand as well.
In the meantime, we’re supplementing our offering with non-organic trees from our wholesaler – our trees are clearly labelled (organic) on the website so you can tell the difference.
If you’re going to plant fruit trees this winter (and haven’t ordered any from Carr’s Organic Fruit Tree Nursery), then it’s time to be either getting your order in (they close on June 30), or thinking about buying trees from a nursery.
To give you an idea of the average size of a new tree, this is what a bare-rooted tree will usually look like when you buy it (these are plum trees we’ve grown in our on-farm nursery):
There’s a number of things you can do to give your fruit trees the best possible start in life, and choosing a good tree at the nursery is the first step.
Most nurseries are reputable, and most trees you buy are in excellent condition, however there are still things to look for to help you choose the healthiest trees available.
Check the roots – they should look moist, and not dry. Be careful buying bare-rooted trees at markets for example, which may have had their roots exposed for long periods. Even if the roots look wet when you buy them, it’s worth asking how long they’ve been out of the ground, and how they’ve been looked after between markets (because the trees may be going to multiple markets before they’re bought).
Check the age of the tree – trees that have been at the nursery for more than 1 or 2 years are at increased risk of transplant shock when moved. Be cautious with trees in pots, as this is often what happens to left-over trees from previous years.
Are the buds healthy?
How much did the tree grow last year? This is a good indication of health.
Does the bark look healthy and free of disease?
When you get your trees home, ensure the roots are kept moist and covered until you plant them.
If you don’t have time to plant your trees straight away, you can also use a method called ‘heeling in’ to keep them in good condition.
You’ll find guidance on the next step towards a healthy mature tree, which is how to plant your tree correctly (including a video), in our Plant New Fruit Trees the Right Way online short course.